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Title:Zia Rider Blog

Description:This was the reason I was able to give Marco my rear wheel to get him home over the weekend... After getting the BMW running great for the first time in 2

Keywords:zia, rider, motorcycle, New Mexico, photography, V Star, Yamaha, blog, motorcycle blog, rider blog, bmw r90, bmw airhead, motorcycle travel

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Purchase/Sale Value: $5,629
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Daily Unique Visitors: 1,419
Monthly Unique Visitors: 42,570
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ziariderblog.com Keywords accounting

Keyword Count Percentage
zia 2 0.09%
rider 2 0.14%
motorcycle 1 0.14%
New Mexico 1 0.14%
photography 0 0.00%
V Star 7 0.60%
Yamaha 0 0.00%
blog 2 0.11%
motorcycle blog 0 0.00%
rider blog 2 0.29%
bmw r90 1 0.10%
bmw airhead 0 0.00%
motorcycle travel 0 0.00%

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Zia Rider Blog Zia Rider Blog CommentsBy EmailPosts Home About New Mexico Motorcycle Events Popular Posts V Star 650 pickup coil and stator replacement V Star 650 Neutral Switch Oil Leak Fix Help! My V Star 650 Wont Start! Cleaning V Star 650 Carburetors V Star 650 AIS Removal V Star 650 Spline Lube V Star 650 oil change disaster Poor Man’s Bike Lift DIY Crankcase Breather Catch Can Electrosport Stator Failure Carlsbad Caverns National Park Day 10 – Tulsa Zoo (2): Fish, Reptiles &… Breakdown Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Hot and Cold Popular posts by Top 10 plugin Older Entries ? BMW R90/6 Cylinder Options By Lynx, on September 11th, 2015 This was the reason I was able to give Marco my rear wheel to get him home over the weekend… After getting the BMW running great for the first time in 2 years and having too much fun zipping around town I decided I’d better focus on fixing other long time issues to continue with making the R90 into a solid and reliable side car platform. The pushrod seals and rear main seal had been done by the previous owner shortly before I got it which helped push me over the edge on pulling the trigger on this bike. Unfortunately now 7 or 8 years later the pushrod seals were now starting to weep and were in need of being replaced again. I had already gotten a full set of top end gaskets and oil pan gasket with the carb rebuild parts. I figured it would only take a weekend tops. What I found when I pulled her apart was shocking and unexpected to say the least. The left cylinder had quite a bit of pitting on the top side of the cylinder and a lot of discoloration on the bottom. The biggest rust spot on the bottom did have a bit of a slight raised swede feel to it and the other spots were smooth with the barrel. The pitting did not feel very deep but could feel it with a finger nail. Listen to the video, there was no indication that one cylinder was this damaged. Top of left cylinder What a way to kill a guys spirit. From the high of finally getting the thing running great and seeing it starting to come together to your dreams dashed on the rocks. Ouch. I knew one thing, fixing this was not going to be cheap. Bottom of left cylinder The other cylinder looked perfect by the way. Pretty damn good for around 90 to 95,000 miles on it. The right side had always had a bit of oil weeping from the base of the cylinder and I was expecting to find a pulled stud but instead I found it was leaking because this side did not have the O ring at the bottom of the cylinder! Some good news. Right Cylinder At least now I know why I had a ring set in the box of spare parts from the previous owner that was missing the oil ring… This also finally explains why this thing smoked like crazy if you happened to leave it on the side stand. I know everyone says that they all do that but this was on a whole other level, we are talking Uncle Buck car type smokeage. After I smoked out a tech day and sent people running for air even fellow airheads said mine was particularly bad. If left on the center stand, however, it never smoked, again check out the video up top. Unfortunately you cant always park on the center stand. I had always assumed that it needed valve guides done, probably still needs those too, and I’d been trying to avoid that expense as long as I could by never parking on the side stand when possible. I sent a few emails out to several vendors to price out my options and compare services offered and received an outstanding response from Ted Porter of BeemerShop with some great info on the R100 cylinder differences that I was not aware of and had to share for others and I’ve included a few snippets from him below in the list. This is a common problem, I can’t tell you how many times I have seen this over the years. It’s moisture and this is what happens when a bike sits. Considering the mileage, the bores are probably both tapered out of spec. This is not something you can see with your eye, a bore gauge is required. In a steel bore with this many miles, it’s very likely that the bore gauge needle would swing pretty significantly indicating that it’s time for a bore restoration. In the old days we would simply purchase first oversize pistons and bore to the first oversize. However today the pistons are scarce and very expensive, plus we now have the technology to plate with Nikasil and continue to use your existing pistons which generally do not wear. This provides a harder Nikasil bore and it is less expensive at $450.00/pair. You will need to use Nikasil appropriate rings which we sell at $76.55 each, two sets required. Of course one step better than this would be to install a set of Siebenrock 1000cc cylinder/piston kits So how do we fix this mess? I’ve put it out to the Airhead Community and I’ve come up with a few options… New R90 cylinders and rings – $$$$ not an option Used R90 cylinders with pistons – I’ve seen sets on http://marketplace.ibmwr.org/ and Ebay from $300-$500 of unknown mileage so a bit of a gamble. Also I have a 1976 and only a set from another ’76 will fit. Used R100 cylinders with pistons – I had incorrectly assumed that any R100 cylinders would be a direct swap for my ’76. I learned from Ted Porter that “you could look for a good used set of BMW 1981-on Nikasil cylinders and pistons which will require a minor modification to the cylinder base to be used on your 76-on block. There is a small step of metal inboard of the base oring groove that is designed to fit into a chamfer in the 81-on block which your 76 model does not have. We just remove this step for $70.00/pair and the cylinder fits the 76-80 block just fine. Keep in mind the 81-81 Nikasil pistons were low compression at 8.2:1, the 1988-on Nikasil pistons were 8.5:1 so they’re a little more desirable.” Bore to next size with new pistons – A local shop has quoted me 50 bucks a side to bore them and their machinist was pretty confident that one size up would take care of the pitting, [Motobins has first and second over pistons for £154 ea] [ Motoren-Isreal has Wossner pistons for 349 Euros a set ] Have cylinders restored, bored and nikasil coated and reuse existing pistons with new rings for nikasil – http://www.powersealusa.com/repair-process/ I heard about this process also from Ted Porter who carries the rings “at $76.55 each, two sets required” and got a quote from PowerSealUSA “From the looks of the photos we should be able to fix them by honing to accommodate the plating thickness then plate/hone to size. Price to plate a steel/cast iron liner is $225 per cylinder.” Siebenrock kit – from Motoren-Isreal – 817 Euros with shipping to the US. From Motobins it is more but comes with a gasket set. I think the first 3 are not an option, at the going rates for questionable used parts I can get new pistons and a rebore. I’ll still keep an eye out for a really good deal on a post ’88 R100 set though. Wossner pistons and a rebore look like my cheapest option for new parts. The downside he...

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